Anne Klein Suit (Vogue 2853)
Step One: Selecting the Pattern
I had previously made the jacket from this pattern - in denim. It was not only simple and classic but very flattering. So, I decided it was worth reworking with my newfound knowledge.
Stage Two: Adjusting the Pattern
I have adjusted the skirt in this pattern using the techniques detailed in Barbara Deckert's online Plus Size Pattern Fitting and Design class. This involved adding the required width across all seams (excluding Centre Front (CF) and Centre Back (CB)) and reducing the distance between the Waist and Hip line.
In addition, I added a substantial amount to the length of the skirt. I wasn't sure exactly how much additional length would be required so added enough fabric so that I could see what would work.
In addition, I added a substantial amount to the length of the skirt. I wasn't sure exactly how much additional length would be required so added enough fabric so that I could see what would work.
Stage Three: Fitting the Muslin
At this stage I made the following additional adjustments:
* Tilted Waist Adjustment - This is outlined beautifully in Sarah Veblen's excellent book titled "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting". It essentially means that you ensure that the skirt is on straight (i.e., your horizontal line is parallel to the floor) and then mark where the waist naturally sits using an elastic band.
* Substitute Contoured Waistband - Once it was clear how curved the waistline was going to be after the tilted waist adjustment, I decided to replace the straight waistband with a contoured band. I may be wrong, but it didn't look as though there was going to be any way to make a straight waistband (designed to sit at the same level around the entire waist) look good when it had to dip down so far at the front.
* Change Waistband Position - The original pattern had the 5cm-wide waistband sitting above the waistline. As I am shortwaisted, I decided it would probably be more flattering to have the new contoured waistband sitting below the waistline.
* Finalise Skirt Length - This involved sitting down with the skirt on and marking the minimum length I needed to be comfortable.
* Tilted Waist Adjustment - This is outlined beautifully in Sarah Veblen's excellent book titled "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting". It essentially means that you ensure that the skirt is on straight (i.e., your horizontal line is parallel to the floor) and then mark where the waist naturally sits using an elastic band.
* Substitute Contoured Waistband - Once it was clear how curved the waistline was going to be after the tilted waist adjustment, I decided to replace the straight waistband with a contoured band. I may be wrong, but it didn't look as though there was going to be any way to make a straight waistband (designed to sit at the same level around the entire waist) look good when it had to dip down so far at the front.
* Change Waistband Position - The original pattern had the 5cm-wide waistband sitting above the waistline. As I am shortwaisted, I decided it would probably be more flattering to have the new contoured waistband sitting below the waistline.
* Finalise Skirt Length - This involved sitting down with the skirt on and marking the minimum length I needed to be comfortable.
Stage Four: Selecting the Fabric
The pattern recommends using Gabardine, Linen and Twill for the Jacket and Skirt and Nylon Fusible Knit for the interfacing.
For my first version of this skirt, my "wearable muslin", I decided to use 6oz Denim.
For my first version of this skirt, my "wearable muslin", I decided to use 6oz Denim.
Stage Five: Constructing the Garment
Although it is cut out, I have yet to construct the skirt.